Sunday, December 30, 2007

Christmas Time in Mali

On Christmas Eve, I went to the post office and received two more Christmas cards, along with a Christmas box from my Aunt Sue. It’s interesting how some cards get here so fast (one was postmarked 12/10) while the others don’t (the other cards was postmarked 11/15). That afternoon was spent making delicious treats! I made peanut butter blossoms, Jessie made Mexican wedding cakes, Anna made chocolate chip cookies, and Laura made pumpkin bread. We decided to get pizza and burgers for dinner. The only problem with American food is that it is really expensive so I buy it for special occasions only. I split a pizza with Laura. It was so good! Afterwards, Anna, Laura, and I went to the Protestant church for the Christmas Eve service. We arrived 10 minutes late. We waited one hour and forty five minutes and it still hadn’t started, so we decided to leave. I was so tired, and the service would have been in Bambara anyway.

Christmas Day was extremely different not being with my family. I woke up at 8 am (which is EXTREMELY late for me on Christmas day), and opened 2 presents (I was a bad girl and opened a few of them last week.) I got an Auburn cell phone cover and bike accessories. I then had a wonderful pancake breakfast with the other volunteers (Calita’s dad went to town…he mailed her Aunt Jemima’s syrup! And she was so kind and shared!) and omelets. I then dozed off while a movie played. I then called my family in SC. I talked to my Mom (she was coming in from the hospital, visiting my aunt’s sister-in-law who just broke her hip), my Dad, and they woke up my little brother. Sometimes I wonder about him. Who doesn’t wake up at the crack of down and wait in anticipation for the magic hour? My little brother. Even when he was little and suppose to be the most excited (one would think), my older brother and I ALWAYS had to wake him up. Even in our twenties.

It was nice talking to everybody. I then called my older brother. I left a message, but called back later and got him. I then spoke to his finance. It was nice talking to them. We got vegetables and potatoes for dinner. Anna and Laura were making “twice baked potatoes”, but they were only once baked before the gas went out. Sigh. We tried getting more gas, but nobody was open. So, we had once baked potatoes, watched Home Alone. The exciting part of the day was when the rat/mouse the size of a large kitten made it’s appearance. I didn’t realize how a rodent can get me so worked up. I immediately stood on the chair, just screaming. We had to get a Malian to come in and kill it. I’m so chill with insects, fish, etc. But rodents? Not so much.

I got home 11ish, showered, and wanted to talk to my family again, so I called again. My Mom and brother took Kramie (our dog) and Edy (brother’s fiancés’ dog) to Miliken to run around. Miliken is great because there are lakes and ducks and it is acres upon acres to run around. Basically, it’s a dogs’ paradise. It was Edy’s first time, and she just loved it! Kramie always loves it. When we turn down the road, Kramie knows what’s coming, and begins to cry and wiggle with excitement. When they got home, the Edster conked out watching the new HP. My Dad got my Mom the Malian mud bag from Hallmark, which is really nice. My Dad has been know to forget to buy presents on Christmas, birthday, etc., so I think my Mom was extremely surprised. All in all, it sounded like they had a very merry Christmas, as did I, so I had a smile on my face before falling asleep.

I went back to work on the 27th. It was definitely hard getting out of the bed because I hadn’t been in over a week (trip to Gao, day of rest, Tabaski, post Tabaski, Christmas Eve, Christmas, post Christmas). I felt productive. PC gave us this sheet we needed to fill out (actually, 3 pages of questions), and I got most of it done.

On the 28th, I completed the rest of it. It’s challenging because a lot of the questions are for rural volunteers and don’t really apply to me in the city.

On Saturday, I went to a SIDA ceremony. I watched them play soccer. It made me think of my little brother.

Today, I have 3 hours of tutoring.

Like I said before, I am spending New Year’s in Sikasso. On January 3rd, I will be going to Bamako. I am planning on visiting my Malian family and doing some fabric and spice shopping. I am looking forward to seeing everybody at Tabinso!

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Tabaski in Mali (WARNING: THERE ARE SOME GRAPHIC PICTURES ON THIS POSTING)


After my time in Gao, I spent a day doing absolutely nothing. I felt bad because I should be integrating more. Oh, well. Some days are like that.
On December 20th, we had the big Tabaski feast. It was so much fun! I saw a sheep being slaughtered for the first time. It was…gross. I was kind of hiding behind a tree and almost got sick. I think Echin’s family really got a kick out of me going around taking pictures of the ram. When the man was done and they started cooking it, I began to yawn. Echin asked if I needed to rest. I said sure, so I thought I would go inside and lay down on the couch. Nope, they had a little iron bed outside, and they dragged it under a tree. The girls then brought out a mattress, so I took a nap, in a bed, under a tree while they were cooking the ram. When I woke up, I had a smile on my face. How funny I thought! Lunch was absolutely delicious! I stuffed myself silly and didn’t even eat dinner.
Then next day, I didn’t go to work, because Tabaski is 2 day holiday or something. (I found out today that it’s a 7 day holiday…wish we holidayed like that in the States! Even though it’s annoying that the things that I use i.e. internet cafes are also closed.) The banks, post office, etc. were closed. I did some wash, and hung out with another volunteer who is in town and is about to leave for Christmas.
Yesterday, I did more wash (it takes a lot longer when you don’t have a washing machine). I also went to a photo exhibit. The website for it is http://www.globalization.com/ . I made the executive decision to stay in Sikasso for Christmas. It would cost 10,000 CFA for just transportation. I would probably be sharing a hotel room with 8 other people, and I will be going to Bamako in about 2 weeks. So, Christmas in Sikasso, NY in Sikasso, and January 5th or 6th, I will be heading to Bamako. I’ll go a few days before training in Tabinso so I will have time to go spice shopping and visit my Malian family.
MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

And lastly, my favorite picture

I was going to write captions, but the pictures are definitely self explanatory.

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Dirt is to Sikasso as...Sand is to Gao!

I have had such a long week! I’m trying to remember what all happened!
Last week, I thought I was getting strep throat, so I wasn’t sure if I would be able to go to Gao. It was so weird because only half of my throat was swollen and painful. Go figure. I ended up getting medicine, and away I went to Bamako! I was really tired when I got in, but I did take my first hot shower (since July)! I don’t know how long I was in there! It was wonderful! I then got a pizza, also wonderful! It was so expensive (but so is all of Bamako), but I thought totally worth it. I slept until…5 am and took another shower. Pretty rare, but so is hot water showers! At 5:30, they got a taxi driver to come. I handed him a map and pointed to where I needed to go. Unfortunately, he didn’t know how to read. I really can’t imagine life without reading! We were supposed to be there at 6 am sharp. I don’t know why but I was stressing. When we pulled up at 6:15, everybody was hanging out. We didn’t leave until 9:45 am! Oh, Mali! The ride was uneventful but really long. I’m not going to lie. I was so annoyed at how many times we stopped! I think they don’t know what killing 2 birds with 1 stone means. We stopped to pray, to pee, to buy snacks, etc. etc. We got to Gao at 7:45 am! I was dog tired! I stayed with another volunteer. It is incredible that his house is like a bureau, so whenever somebody comes in, they stay with him. I would go crazy! He doesn’t cook, but there were a pile of dirty dishes. Don’t get me wrong. I love having guests. But not 24/7. After sleeping a little, I had lunch with Sara. Sara made this incredible pasta with tomatoes and tuna. Delicious! I then went around with Meg. It was very nice of her to show me around. I saw the market. It is so much more organized than Sikasso! We had salad and beans for dinner, and then played Apples to Apples. Apples to Apples is such a fun game!
Sunset in Gao





Tomeschec (misspelled, I know) homes in Gao



Then the next day (Saturday), I went to the festival. I definitely should have called to see what was going to be on the agenda before my 30 hour trip! I did get to see camels and horses. There was a “parade” (but in Malian parades, they stand in a formation…that’s it) and a lot of introductions. When the festival was over, I went back to James’ place to get a bike. Every 50 feet or so I would come close to crashing down! If you want a real workout, try biking in the sand! I then had lunch at Sarah’s house (she is the Gao tourism volunteer), and then saw Kelly’s house.

Kelly and me

Kelly is in my stage, so it was fun to see where she lives. All the Gao volunteers have little fridges, and it makes me want one real bad! I have been a good girl this year….maybe Santa will bring me one! Cold drinks are absolutely amazing!!!! I then had a lovely dinner with Meg. It was so much fun! I unfortunately couldn’t stay awake for ‘smores, but sleep was more important to me than staying awake.

Sarah and me: Tourism Volunteers




On Sunday, I went back in…A PC CAR! I didn’t know that a car was going up to Gao…grrrrr….I have to let it go. I saw cows, camels, goats, sheep, and lizards crossing the road during the ride, but no chickens. (sorry couldn’t resist). I can’t read in the car and I didn’t bring my ipod, so I looked out the window the whole time, and occasionally dozed off. I rode with another volunteer named Brie. She is actually the volunteer before me in Droit II, so it was fun to talk about our family! We spent the night in…some town I can’t remember the name of. But, we hung out at the bureau. Our bureau in Sikasso is a one room hole in the wall, but we don’t have mice! I didn’t know this about me until I went there; I am a squealer when I see mice. They had like 6 mice running around the place!
This brings me to yesterday (Monday?). We drove from the town to Bamako. We stopped in another town (I’m terrible) and had lunch with 3 other volunteers. It was fun catching up! When we got to Bamako, I asked to be dropped off at the bus station. Bamako is expensive, and since I’m going back for Christmas, I decided it would be best if I went on home. I got there at 4:15 pm, but didn’t get on the bus until 6:30. I did talk to my daddy, so that was nice. I unfortunately picked (excuse me, led to) a terrible bus line because I didn’t get home until 5 am this morning! I heard the rooster’s crow before I went to sleep! It typically takes between 6-7 hours…but the bus was having multiple issues. I won’t be taking that bus line again.
What a week!


Group shot of the Camels


I'm out of time at the cyber cafe, but i'll try to include some of Trinh's birthday pictures on the next one.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

I Can't Believe it's December!

I am in awe that we are already in December! Like I said before, the weather is definitely not “frightful”, but it is getting a little chilly (coming from the person who wore a skirt, long of course and a short sleeved shirt). I probably could have used a light coat today. Malians prefer down coats in this weather.
Sunday was the big SIDA day! Trinh gave me the job of taking pictures and I failed because my battery died and I forgot my backup. It was fun and over 30 people got tested for HIV and probably wouldn’t have done so unless we were there. A bunch of PCV came. It was cool to see how much PCVs support each other!
A Malian boy
Kid playing on the basketball stand

neck support?

On Monday morning, I went to…the POST OFFICE! I received a letter from my mom and older brother (still waiting on my letter from my younger brother), and a package from Bethel UMC women’s Circle One. It was so sweet that they thought of me during this holiday season! I was thinking it was from my mom, and definitely had to do a double take when I read who sent it. That afternoon, I went to a baby shower. This one wasn’t nearly as grand as the former, but I still had a good time. When they announced “Lala Maiga” I had to get up and dance. I was happy a woman went with me! One thing that I found out during the shower is my camera is really irritating me. Sometimes it will take great shots, and others, it turns out fuzzy and distorted. My picture with the newborn didn’t turn out. On Monday night, I decided to write a little Christmas card. It’s just a small update, but it felt good to send Christmas letters out.
I went back to the post office on Tuesday (they know me by name to say the least) and mailed the letters. I went to the tailor that afternoon. I bought this really cute fabric and am getting a skirt and purse made.
On Wednesday I washed clothes. I had to wear a Malian outfit because I had no clean clothes! I received lots of compliments, but if I rode my bike back to my apartment, I would have ripped my skirt. I bought some more fabric because my Vera Bradley bag couldn’t handle Africa, so I need a new purse. I went to 4 different tailors. I was frustrated because people would say (all in French) “I don’t speak English” while I was speaking French to them! My pronunciation definitely needs help. I went by my homologues house (on the way to the bakery), and told him that he is the only person that understands my French. The two guys beside him told me that they understood me. I said great, 3 people in Mali understand me. Sigh. Another issue I ran into was I bought eggs from this lady who is friendly, knows my name, etc. Well, one of the eggs had blood in it, so I felt so guilty when she sent the kid inside to go get eggs and I chose to buy eggs elsewhere. That is my right as a customer, but I still felt bad and don’t want to burn any bridges (especially for eggs).
I get to work on Thursday and am told that I am fat! Talk about a great start to a day! It didn’t bother me when a student who is interning at OMATHO told me how fat I was because she said that she was fat too. I don’t know, but it really upset me (perhaps because it was coming from males) and tears were definitely forming in my eyes. But, in Mali, this is not an insult. It means that I am “well fed”. So, I wasn’t happy at work. But, I did pick up my purse and skirt I got made, and was delighted! I love the fabric! It is a dark blue and light blue! It’s really cute.
On Friday, I woke up on the verge of a migraine, so I took some medicine and went back to sleep. I was feeling better enough in the afternoon to be tutored. I practiced joking because there are a lot of Maigas and Trores in Gao, and I wanted to make sure that I am ready to joke. Malians love “bean jokes” i.e. you eat beans, you like beans, would you like some beans (while eating lunch or dinner), so I practiced those, and I also practiced you are a donkey, you are my slave (I can’t see this joke flying in the US), you are my son/daughter. I feel ready for Gao. Trinh has a lot of joking cousins here (I really like my name and refused to change), and while buying a watermelon, she discovered it was from a joking cousin so she said, your watermelon probably has beans in it! It’s hard to explain, but people love joking. Yesterday, I did buy eggs from that lady. She told me if any were bad, to come back and exchange. I’m glad that turned out well. On my way to the bakery, I stopped and talked to Echin. Echin is sick (I don’t know what’s going on), but he is probably not going to Gao, so there is a possibility that PC may not let me go either. I really hope they let me, especially now that I’m ready to joke!
Today was the last day of English club for the year. I really like the club and will continue to be a part of it in January. The kids are starting to understand my southern accent, so it’s really cool to see how they are progressing.
This Monday, I have another purse to pick up. And, it’s Trinh’s birthday. Trinh informed me she’s “not a big birthday person” which is weird because I’m all about my birth month (perhaps I’m narcissistic, I don’t know)! So, I’ll try not to go overboard. And, hopefully, my next blog will be posted when I’m in Gao!

Sunday, December 2, 2007

What a Long Week it's Been!

Thanksgiving Week was so exciting! But the week after? I never thought it would end! On Monday, I got my power back! Echin is fantastic! I talked to my landlord and my neighbor, but after I while, I realized Echin would be better, so he talked to them both. There was a “misunderstanding”. My neighbor paid the bill, but he did so by check (which I think it extremely rare here), but the company lost the check, didn’t deposit the check, something, but they were convinced he didn’t pay it. I’m glad my neighbor is intelligent and kept the receipt! Also on Monday, I got a Christmas box from my family! I know lots of people wouldn’t be able to wait to open the presents, but I want to because I want to have something to open! And, I’m appreciating the little things: the box was covered with Clifford the Big Red Dog Stickers! How great is that? It definitely brought a smile to my face!
On Tuesday, I went to the post office to mail some letters. The guy who gives us letters and boxes told me I had a box! I only pick up things on Monday, but since I was already there….Anyway, my aunt Donna mailed me a Christmas box too! What a great start to a really slow week! On Tuesday night, I ended up making peanut butter balls. Peanut butter balls are terrific (in Ohio, they call them Buckeye balls) and they remind me of Christmas because that is when they are made most often. My mom sent the ingredients, and they were superb!
Life is Terrific!
On Wednesday, I got a call at work. Two Mauritania volunteers were coming down to Sikasso. It was great because I still didn’t do an intense cleaning job after Mexican Night, so this got me moving! They didn’t arrive until 1 am on Thursday. I am relieved I woke up because I have been know to answer my phone and not know it!
On Thursday, I showed them around. They cooked dinner. They made tortillas, guacamole, salsa. Overall, it was a really good meal.
On Friday, I ate lunch with Trinh and her homologue. His dog had puppies. Only one is left! She is precious! (It’s still a debate of what “it” is but I’m convinced it’s a she) I think the Malians thought I was crazy because I was rocking it back and forth like a baby! They named it Police, which is a pretty popular dog name here.
My landlord called me twice on Saturday to ask when I was going to pay rent! Hello, it’s December 1st and a Saturday! I informed him I would pay him on Monday. A little strange, but it is a different culture! Yesterday, I also began listening to Christmas music! I talked to another volunteer and it made her cry. But, probably because I’m going home in April, I didn’t find it sad. I found it funny. “Oh, the weather outside is frightful…Let it snow?!?” Obviously, the individual who wrote it didn’t live in Africa!
This weekend, is the big SIDA (French for AIDS) weekend. This afternoon is the big finale of the basketball tournament. People are coming in to test people for AIDS, condoms distributed, and basketball will be played. It should be a good afternoon!


English Club

Yesterday Afternoon Before the SIDA meeting

The Sky After the SIDA meeting
Coming Events:
December 10th: Trinh’s Birthday!
December 14th: Leaving for Gao! (Check out a map! It’s reallllly far away!)
December 22th: Tabaski (Muslim holiday where a lot of lamb is consumed)
December 25th: Christmas in Bamako!
December 31st: New Year’s in Sikasso!
January 8th: Training in Tabiniso
End on January: African Cup in Ghana!