Birthday Week

Birthday Girl

I am continuing to do a poor job of journaling. I will try to do a better job. This past Wednesday was my Birthday Eve. I went with my homologues daughter to buy green beans and chickens. I bought so much food!

Racers pawprint and me

She was giving me a hard time because I didn’t want to hold the chickens. Can you blame me? I was thankful that they killed and plugged the chickens: My arms were already full of green beans, onions, and carrots. I didn’t know how I could carry six chickens too! Lindsay came in from her village, which I felt so honoured because she is pretty darn far away! Her village is a few hours away, and from the main road, she is another 40K!!! Lindsay and I helped snapped green beans. I kept on doing it wrong (I didn’t even know there was a right or wrong way!!!) I was exhausted, and quite thankful that some of Echins children cleaned my house for a birthday present! I was quite glad, even though I know they were probably appalled. But, I don’t have kids, a husband (despite my fibbing), and I have a job outside the home. My tutor informed me that most Malian houses are cleaned a few times a day, but again, a lot of times children jobs are cleaning. I think a lot of American homes would be dirty if that was the children’s responsibility! Anyway, I was quite exhausted, and was delighted the next morning when my alarm clock woke me up and not prayer call! What a great start to my birthday! (The past few weeks I have been woken up by prayer call, regardless of what time I went to sleep, and unable to go back to sleep, which makes for a long day.) I was a tad annoyed that I heard people yelling my name. It was some of my homologues children, demanding more oil for the potatoes. I wanted to say, well then don’t use oil, but I didn’t and gave it to them. At work, Trinh brought in pastries. So sweet of her! She also made a card and got everybody to sign it. I got a little emotional, and I don’t know why, but I am so lucky to be in Sikasso with Trinh! The volunteer that is going to replace Trinh has HUGE shoes to fill! For lunch, Linds, Trinh, and I went to a “Tubabu” restaurant. I ordered a chicken sandwich with fries and ketchup, but inside of giving me fries, they put the ketchup on the sandwich, and disregarded the fries. Oh, the joys of communication! That afternoon, I read trashy magazines (i.e. Cosmo). It was great. I then got ready for my birthday party, and then Trinh and Calita came over. Trinh got me some fabric, and Calita made my cake. (That morning, Linds gave me some jewellery.)

My homologue, me, and his wife

We then went over to my homologues house. It was fantastic! Some of the kids got dressed up for my birthday party! I played cards before dinner. There is a Malian game called 151, and I am terrible! I hope to improve. We then had a lovely dinner of chicken, green beans, and potatoes. I was delighted that 2 SED PC workers could come, Mackie and Mama. It was a really fun day. I slept so well that night! This past Saturday, I met with a local village

Lye and me

to discuss their well problem. I was encouraged to see about 50 people came. Many of their wells are dried up. The women also have to get up 3ish to get water for their husbands’ morning bathes. Because I am in a city, I really forgot that men and women sit separately during meetings in rural settings. I was so culturally sensitive when I made a joke, are the men scared of the women? I fortunately forgot the word for scared, but my tutor explained to me that it’s cultural. Way to go, Lala. At the beginning, one man said, look at the women. They are exhausted. The have to get up so early to get us water, and clean and cook. We need more working wells. Sometimes, I have to tell the American in me to chill because I really wanted to say, would it be that hard if you swept the house every once in a while when your wife is getting your water?!? Or maybe, because men are generally physically stronger than women (even though I got really angry in elementary school when teachers would pick boys to lift the heavy boxes; I really could have taken them on with my gymnasts’ strength. Seriously!), get your own water? Just another example of why I would be single the rest of my life if I opted to stay in Mali. Anyway, we established that the community needs more working wells, and got a committee lined up. On Sunday, the committee and I met again. We are going to apply for funding, but my tutored informed me today that he hasn’t gathered the necessary information yet, so we will have to wait until the next deadline because we will probably miss this deadline. I might also check into some other organizations to see if they can help. I reiterated the point to the community that the community has to contribute 33%, so I hope they understand.

(I really want to write “Confidential to Anonymous” just like Dear Abby, but I’ll resist;)

In addressing the question about the marriage proposals, I asked other volunteers and we discussed this with 2 Malian men.
One Asian American said that white woman is constantly portrayed as uppers in literature. I didn’t think about that, but I can definitely see her point.
One white volunteer said that when she got a marriage proposal, she said, I don’t know about taking you back to American. He said, America? Who said anything about America? You’ll stay here with me. So, it is not every man’s intention of going back to the States. I’m sure some people think about it, but often they see America as big, rich, and full of opportunities, but they don’t consider all of the wonderful aspects of Malian culture that they would miss. I would imagine when Malians do go to America, they are often overwhelmed and may even prefer the simple life. (Sometimes, I imagine taking a Malian to Disney World, show them a drive through window, or even just a grocery store. I can’t even imagine!)
I asked the men that perhaps some men proposal simply because of the curiousness of being with someone so different from them? They said that was definitely possible. They also said that the older men are joking (thank goodness because sometimes I want to say “seriously gramps”?) One of the Malian men spent some time in America and said Americans really know how to love. But, Malian women just want to know if you’ll buy them a cell phone, new clothes, etc. But, I think this is also different because of so many reasons! Malian men pay money to the girls’ father to get married to her. I explained that the girls’ father typically pays for the wedding, a concept that most Malians were dismayed with. Also, I like to think that in the States (for most couples anyway, or at least I like to think it works this way), couples give and take. Sometimes, a spouse has to make some sacrifices to make the marriage work. But essentially, each person is concerned about their spouse and how they are feeling, what they like, etc. In my short time here, I feel that relationships are definitely viewed differently here.

Calita, me, Trinh, and Lindsay: Birthday 2008

And Time Keeps on Moving...

I should have brought my journal while typing up this blog! I started writing again, but I left it at home.
On Monday, Jack, Trinh, and I made salmon cakes along with potatoes and carrots. It’s great being “Sikasso Kaw” (Bambara for people that live in Sikasso)! It’s having a community within PC. So, Sikasso Kaws stick together and RPCV Sikasso Kaws mailed us a box full of goodies! So, it was packaged salmon (thanks RPCV Sikasso Kaw!) and we made salmon cakes. Delicious!
On Tuesday, I went to Trinh’s training. She began it a few weeks ago, encouraging creativity and product differentiation. From my view point, schools here encourage memorization and not creative thinking, and it is obvious to me that creative thinking is not nurtured when children are in school. Malians are really good copying styles and patterns, but to say, make a sac (purse), you will get blank looks.

Their work

Again, this is a broad generalization, but I would imagine that a lot of people would agree with me. Even with foodstuff, people lack differsivication. When coming back from Segou a few weeks ago, we stopped at this one place and EVERYBODY was selling “ghato” (cake/muffins).

Sporting a sac

I went a few weeks ago to look at their products that they were going to take to the Segou Music Festival. It was fun returning and seeing just how far these women have progressed! I also got to hang out with the other Katy from Sikasso region, so that was fun catching up.
Wednesday was the closing ceremony of the formation. They had snacks, drinks, and certificates. It was fun. When the VIPs left, they discussed goals for the next 3 months. Again, a new concept to most. I also RSVPed to my brother’s finaces’ wedding shower. I unfortantely cannot make it (hmmm…) Nobody can say that my mama didn’t raise me right!!
Valentine’s Day was just another day I happily ate my box of chocolates. My cell phone company had a promotion, but it wasn’t nearly as huge as it was in December for Tabaski! I received one “happy vday” text from my friend Lindsay, so that was a pleasant surprise.
Yesterday, Trinh came over for moral support cleaning. My apartment is out of control! But, there is always a room ready for guests. My room, on the other hand, has to have the door shut when people come over. Clothes and books are my doing, but I live beside the busiest road in Sikasso, and beside the road is dirt. When 18 wheelers come zooming past, they stir up all the dirt to my place. You may think I’m exaggerating, but I’m really not!! I still love where I live, regardless of previous problems (i.e. water). I feel so safe in an apartment. I don’t think I could have that sense of security if I lived in a house. Anyway, Trinh was amazing support, and she ended up cooking dinner while I slaved away in my room. I feel like I made a dent. That’s progress right? You may be wondering, how could I accumulate so much stuff, but it is possible.
That’s my week in a nut shell…
Next week….MY BIRTHDAY! I am going to buy lamb meat for my work to enjoy, and then I am buying 5 chickens and green beans. I totally invited myself to my homologues’ house. The family is wonderful, and I feel connected to them. I will still never not be a guest, but I’ve downgraded from VIP status. I don’t think they will ever let me clear my own plate or sit on the floor. Maybe next year. I am buying the food because that’s really the least I can do. They will kill, pluck, and cook the chickens and cook the green beans. So many times, the guest get chicken and pasta, but everybody else is eating rice, so for my birthday, we are all going to enjoy the same “guest” food. Everybody is going to have fun on Lala’s Maiga’s birthday!

At the celebration!

2 Thumbs up for all their hard work

Oh, I apologize to anonymous, will address your question next week. Would love to be on a first name basis!

The Past 2 Weeks and Random Tidbits

I have done a bad job journaling these past two weeks, so I can only remember bits and pieces.

On Friday, February 1, 2008, my water got turned back on! I spoke to my landlord, gave him money for my "part" and he dealt with it. When I got back home, the business with the bill told me I owed more money. I asked to see the bill and the calculations, and surprise, they miscalculated. I really need a water counter because without it, I will always feel like I'm getting ripped off.

The week of the 28th to February 1st, was my first real work week. A British writer frocame and is wanting to update the Mali tourist book. I hope is is able to come back in March so we can set up an agenda for her. This could be huge for Sikasso tourism. My coworkers and I also began working on signs for the tourist sites around Sikasso. This is a bigger project than I would have imagined, but it's good.

February 2nd to 8th, a PC tutor came to help me with French. This time went so much better than the first time around! I actually feel like I've improved, where as before, I actually thought my French got worse (if even possible!). Now, I have to keep the momentum going and continue to study every day.

RANDOM TIDBITS:
Mali, like many other countries, considers the left hand unclean because they use the left hand and water to clean themselves wehn they are done using the bathroom. WhenI was told this in the States, I was grossed out. But now? It's actually quite practical. I get the eww feeling when not everybody uses soap afterwards, but that's another story. Anyway, I observed a 4 year old being wiped and asked what age does the child start taking card of his/her business? I was told inattentive parents let their childern do it when they are young, but other wipe their childern until they are 9 or 10. At school for young childern (4, 5, 6 year olds), there are women that assist them and then teach them to wash their hands. This is so different from how I was raised. I remember my Mom teaching a Sunday school class and a 5 year old asked her to wip her and my mom said if you are old enough for big girl panties, you are old enough to wipe yourself.

Engagement rings: I've changed my mind about engagement rings so many times. But, I have come to the conclusion that engagement rings and wedding rings are a great idea. I have been asked countless times in Mali, are you married? Do you want to marry me? Why don't you want to marry me...etc. etc. In the states, words are unnessasary! You just have to look at a woman's left hand to see if she's available!!! (which probably wouldn't work that well here, when you can legally have up to 4 wives). But, this was my breakthrough of the week. I think engagement rings are genius and so are wedding bands.

That's all for now. I don't have time to spell check so please overlook the mistakes.

Busy Week!

There are about 70 people in The Breakfast Club, and there are about 7 Katies/Kates. I asked how they differentiated me and I’m “Southern Katie.” I found that really funny.
On Sunday, we went back to Sikasso. It was wonderful to be back home! I went to sleep at 8 pm!
On Monday, we went to my work, and some other bureaus. I was surprised to see the Malian Flag everywhere: on motos, on people, decorating businesses. It turns out that Mali was playing football that evening. After Mexican Night at Trinh’s place, (We pride ourselves on year round avocadoes), I stopped at a beauty shop to watch Mali play Camaroon. It was so exciting! When the game was over, I was (as well as every other Malian) proud. There was a leader running blowing a whistle 3 times, and all these people following him would shout “MALI!” It was a lot of fun (except I almost got hit by a moto, even though I wasn’t on the road, but that’s another story). When I went home, the water was off. I was thinking it’s just Mali, but the next morning, it was still off and the water outside was off too. I talked to a guy downstairs, and he said that the bill wasn’t paid. Great. How come I’ve never seen the bill?
On Tuesday, we visited every touristy site in Sikasso. We went to the Waterfalls at Waroni. It was a lot of fun, except I met the village chief, wearing jeans and a t-shirt. There are still some issues, and I may go to the village and live there for 2 weeks or so. I”ll let you know. We then went to the Doors to Sudan. It was so interesting because the road to get there was formerly the road to Ivory Coast. I’m sure glad they built a new road! We then went to the Mamalon, Tata, and the Caves of Missiroro. I found the caves very cool because some people still live in the caves! I felt like I was intruding just a bit. I’m glad nobody can wonder around my living room! There were 2 separate caves for Animists and Muslims. The Animist side had lots of feathers and animal skulls (for sacrifices).
Wednesday morning, we left for Segou. I was a little panicky (I don’t know why…it is Mali) because I thought I was going to miss my bus. I made it in plenty of time (we were 30 minutes late leaving). The bus was trying to charge us money to put our bags underneath the bus. I think most PCV would agree with me that we don’t mind paying for a service, as long as everybody is paying for the service too. We spoke with some other Malians, and they had to pay also. So many times people see the color of our skin and the price doubles.
So many people sell things at the bus station, and I regret not buying this really cute Malian belt. Surly they have to sell it in the market?
The road from Sikasso to Segou is so wonderful! It’s paved the whole way with practically no pot holes!! It was such a pleasant ride! When we got there, we went to a volunteer’s house. It was unreal! It overlooks the Niger and is just lovely. I can’t remember what we did that afternoon, but for dinner, we went to a really nice restaurant and I got lasagna! It’s not Gramma’s or Mom’s or even Stoueffer’s lasagna, but it was delicious!! The restaurant also overlooked the Niger River, and we were able to see the sunset. It was weird to me to see other Tubabs. I didn’t realize that Segou had so many tourists! (The Segou music festival is this weekend, so I would imagine some people came early.)
On Thursday, I felt like a real jerk. I saw another volunteer eating Vascuri (cheeselike spread), so I thought, well, I better go get something to eat. I went and got bread and eggs and brought them back to cook. Only I was the only one. Oh, well. I thought it was every person for his/herself. We were running late, but I managed to cook breakfast, eat breakfast, and still wait on some people. We went to a tailor school where a Segou volunteer did some work. Then, we went to the tourism place. After that, we went to the guide center. Lunch was okay. Because I went big the night before, I got….rice. That afternoon, we went to a Bogolan place, and it was my favorite part of field trip. There were so many people dyeing so many different items! Part of the tour, we each got a piece of cloth and painted it. I once again remember why I got a C in art class. On the taxi ride home, I saw a completely naked man on the side of the road. Things you don’t see everyday.
I do know if you realize how big of a deal this is, but I ate a HAM SANDWICH for dinner!! I was craving one a week ago, and it’s so satisfying when you get to quench the desire. It was one of the best sandwiches I’ve had in my life! Hurray for tourism and animists!!
Friday morning, I caught what I thought would be a quick bus (it was loading 30 minutes before “departure time”). While we were off to a quick start, beginnings can be deceiving. Our first stop was so a guy could get some hot coals to start a fire to make tea on the bus. I think I was the only one of the bus that laughed out loud, but after a stop every 30 minutes for more tea, cigarettes, yeagen breaks, I was irritated. I finally made it back home! I was happy to see the guy who works in the apartment below me was in. I asked to see the bill (no water…surprise). Apparently, in 5 months, nobody paid the bill. It was about 72,000 CFA (about 150 USD). He told me my part was 52,000 CFA. I was so frustrated and wanted to cry because 6 people are on the same bill! I ended up calling Echin to come and mediate. Malians write there 1s weird, and I thought the one was a scribble, so my part ended up being 15,200. The guy had this crazy calculation thing going on (neither Echin nor I could understand), but he figures out how much people owe by the amount of hours they stay. Because I live there, my portion would be higher than the companies that are occupied for 8 hours a few days a week, which makes complete sense to me. I just really wanted to understand where he was getting these numbers from. I ended up paying my part, and am hoping that the water will be turned on tomorrow. I would imagine that even in the ghettos of America, the water is separate for each dwelling. This is another example of some of the luxuries Americans have without even thinking about it. So, I’m sure some people are wondering how I’m getting water. Currently, every morning, I go to my neighbors’ house, pull my water from a well, and carry it to my apartment, which includes a flight of stairs. This experience reaffirms my decision that if I had to choose between running water and electricity, I would go water all the way!

Random Updates

Thursday night, I went to sleep with a headache. Sleep is a wonderful, natural medicine, but unfortunately, I still woke up with a headache. It progressively got worse (despite the migraine medicine), so last night, I ended up going to Bamako. I spent the night in the medical office. They were super nice, and I got a quiet, dark room. The clock was REALLY loud (for all you non-migraine sufferers, sound is magnified), so I took it off the wall. I slept for a good 11 hours or so. I woke up at 4 amish, with my head still pounding, and I was sad thinking about a classmate in high school who had a 2 week migraine!! But, at 8:30, I was feeling better, not 100%. I felt good enough to deal with my airplane ticket. The Malian travel agency does not accept credit cards, so I had to go to the bank 4 times, 4 different days!! Today, they gave me a price about 20 dollars cheaper, so I was happy about that. The rest of the day was spent napping, I got a shot (God knows what for, I have been shot so many times, I stopped asking what for), and gchatting.
Oh, the highlight about staying at the med office? A hot shower:)
This week and last week has blended together. Sometime during the past two weeks, a language tutor found a black cobra in the library! No joke! So that was exciting to say the least.
Also, we had 2 really good guest speakers. One guy was an apprentice for a fetish seller (a guy that sells random animal parts such as monkey heads, elephant nails, etc.). His dad is way up on the ladder for protecting animals, but this guy is working on his Ph.D. in anthropology, and it just worked out that he would be this main fetish sellers apprentice. The guy who he was working for may even be into sorcery. It's like real life HP! He wanted to experience first hand to better understand why people kill animals. I found it extremely interesting and eye opening that they use the entire animal. They eat the meal, sell the fur, perhaps sell different parts of the body for medicinal or religious reasons.
The other guest speaker whom I thoroughly enjoyed listening to was an extremely passionate individual who inspired me all over again of why I'm here. He started a small non-profit organization called African Sky. Check it out when you have some time.
http://africansky.org/

I thought I could remember more, but apparently, I can't. I went alot of meetings, ate a lot of rice and sauce, and enjoyed talking to my roomies once again.
Tomorrow, I am going back home for a field trip! I'm excited to go home for a little bit, and then the rest of our field trip is in Segou. I love going to new places!!

Side note: I apologize for not posting pictures. I love pictures too, but I'm having difficulties with my camera. When I go to the States in April, I will take the camera to the repair shop, and if that doesn't work, I will purchase a new one (or even a used one). I gave my camera to a Malian coworker during the Balafone Festival (see post beginning of November), and it hasn't been the same since. Things that make you go ummm. I could find pictures from the internet if you would perfer for me to spice my blogs up until April.

Tubaniso

It's so different being back at "summer camp". (Some volunteers have another name for it, but I wouldn't go there.) This week has gone by sooo slow!! When I first got to Bamako, I had a delicious cheeseburger...probably one of the best of my life!!! Honestly. And, then I got ice cream:) I got caramel and chocolate, and it was real ice cream, none of that fake cheap stuff they have in Sikasso! I forgot how much I've missed REAL ice cream!! It was amazing!!!! The next day I got another cheeseburger, and to my surprise, it was better than the day before!!!! The last day we were in Bamako before going to Tubaniso, I got 4 scoops of ice cream! But, before you start judging me, the scoops are way smaller than America. I was really loving life!! 2 chocolate scoops and 2 caramel!! (This is why I can't go to Bamako alot b/c Bamako sucks the money right out of you!!!)

I've been SHOCKED at how cold Mali can get at night!!! We have campfires every night. I checked www.weather.com and the low for Bamako was 54!!! I'm convinced that because Tabinso is near Bamako and not in Bamako, it must be at least 10 degrees colder here!!!

I took my language test again. On paper, I haven't improved in 3 months. Which, I know is a lie! But, I'm still really frustrated. Sigh.

I haven't found the sessions super helpful, thanks to all the wonderful business classes I took at Auburn. But, I have found the guest speakers super motivational. One guy had me so motivated! I'm ready (except the minor language barrier) to go back to site to get some work done!!! For the next 3 months, my goals are:
~I'm am going to encourage the construction completion at Waroni. There are some issues with that, but that's another story for another day.
~I am also going to work on getting signs up for the tourist sites.
~I will begin working on a map of Sikasso. Sikasso has a paragraph in the Lonely Planet West Africa book, but I would love to have more information and a map to send the publisher! (I don't know if that will do anything, but it's important to me to try.)

The more I think about it, the more I want to start a girls after school club. I will continue to work on my French so I don't look like a complete doofus. Also, a few months ago, I was approached by a community near where I live because most of their wells are dried up. During hot season, the women have to get up at 3 am to get clean water! I told them I would assist them, and I think one of the speakers gave me the contact information I need. I think (but I need to encourage what the community wants), that because they are so close to the city, they should think about getting the pipes extended...which costs a lot of money, but it's where the organization I am going to contact would come into play. I'll keep you posted.

I'm going to Bamako today because I only brought 1 long-sleeved shirt with me. I can't wash it because it's my only source of warmth! I haven't taken it off in over a week! Seriously, I sleep in it, I go to meetings in it, I exercise in it, etc.) So, I'm going used-clothes shopping for some warm clothes!! (I know I am going to laugh hysterically at the post in about 2 months.) Who would have thought? I might get some more ice cream while I'm there....

New Year's 2008 and then some

New Year's 2008 was so much fun! I was in Sikasso with Anna, Brooke, Lindsay, and Christine. Christine is getting her Ph.D. and is doing research in Mali for a few months and then she will go on to another country.

Right now, I am in Bamako (using free internet:). I went to my homestay village of Droit II today. I found out yesterday that my Malian father passed away last week. I got really emotional when I saw my MM (Malian Mom), covered in white, laying on a mattress on the floor in the living room. Of course, crying is a faux pas in Mali (don't do it!), but I am emotional. Sigh. I ate lunch with my MM and sister and my MM's sisters. My MM is so thoughtful and bought me a soft drink! And, she paid me the highest compliment I could ever receive...she said I was "faultless" (which we all no is not true, but it was still a really great compliment!) I also was able to see 2 of my brothers.

Afterwards, I went to a "Tubab store" (similar to an American supermarket, but not quite...) and had so much fun walking up and down every single aisle! I then had the best cheeseburger of MY LIFE and am now using the free interent, getting attacked by the mosquitoes. Always something.

My Malian Father, RIP: 1954-December 24, 2007