Shea Formation...and other adventures

There was a shea formation Tuesday through Thursday, so I saw a lot of volunteers I typically don’t see. I went to the shea formation (even though it was done in Bambara), and got some handouts in French. I haven’t pair up with a women’s group, but I am hoping that my role in the city is finding a buyer that pays well for quality shea nuts. Mali ran into some problems with exporters several years ago, so it’s really important that we build up Mali’s reputation for high quality nuts. And of course, on Thursday, every participant received a certificate and proudly displayed it for the camera (it was quite sad to see so many people hold it upside down because they can’t read).

On Monday, I tutored my Chinese friends (in English) that work at the hospital. I tried a tea egg (hard boiled egg that was boiled in tea), a cuddle fish that was individually wrapped, and dried squid. Not what I would have in my refrigerator in America, but it was very kind of them to share.

Tuesday night, I hung out with Lindsay. It was quite impressive that when we walked to my homologues’ house together, a kid knew her name too! (Linds is a site rat, and Malians have a hard time telling us apart!) Linds is writing to a class from her hometown. I definitely want to do that the next school year! I read all the letters (from 3rd graders), and there was one letter I just couldn’t understand. One girl wrote I have one thing to say…Madam Micshelle. Linds, I don’t get it. I read it a few times, but then Linds explained, “Mademoiselle”. Isn’t that great?! It made my night!

On Wednesday, I went to the pool with Laura. We were the first to arrive…if I am paying a few bucks to get in, I’m getting my moneys worth! As a former lifeguard and swim instructor, I’ve seen some pretty gross water…Mali is no exception. But, it was so much fun relaxing! It was so quiet and peaceful until some Malian male teenagers came in. Everybody though I was being ridiculous, but one guy had is camera out and was taking pictures. “Katie, you are overreacting. He’s taking pictures of his friends” but then other volunteers noticed that the cell phone camera was pointed at us, no where near his friends. One volunteers politely asked him not to (in Bambara). If I knew Bambara, I would have demanded him to stop in a not so polite voice. I kept on reminding myself that I have a teenage brother at home, and if he saw thighs (in real life, not a magazine or a movie) for the first time with his friends, he and his friends would have probably pulled out the camera phone too. But, it was still irritating. We ordered food (I know, so American), from a different hotel because this hotel was so expensive. The food took quite some time getting to our destination, but it was so worth it! Afterwards, we had pina coladas, Malian style (we had to use drink powder), but not bad. I went home before the dancing because the hotel was charging us more money to stay. When I got home, I had an unwelcome visitor in my bathroom….a scorpion. I was relieved that I had time to go get the spray for unwanted insects. It always seems that whenever I leave the room, the insect disappears. I was happy that was not the case. I’d imagine that if I knew a scorpion was alive in my house, I would probably have a difficult time sleeping. I’m one for one!

On Thursday, we had a birthday celebration for Jessie. Her birthday is next week, but because so many people were here, we decided to go ahead and celebrate. We had a delicious salad, bread, and macaroni and cheese. And, let’s not forget birthday cake!

Yesterday, I was hanging out with my homologue’s wife, and I told this guy he was crazy. Crazy in French translates to mentally ill. They don’t really joke about it here. But, I called this guy crazy because he had on a long sleeved shirt!!! It was over 100 degrees yesterday. I understand that culturally, men wear pants or booboos, but a long sleeved shirt too? Anyway, other people were laughing and he eventually took it off, and lo and behold, he was wearing a Bailey and Harris shirt with “Auburn, AL” below the emblem! When you donate your clothes, you never know where they will end up!

Hot season has gradually begun. I actually woke up last night at 2 am, sweating, and unable to go back to sleep. But, I think I found a solution. Take a middle of the night shower! It worked for me last night. But, the water bill hasn’t been paid in 2 months, so I don’t know how long my “showers for sleep” will last.

I am so EXCITED about my trip home!! It’s crazy that I am leaving in 9 days!!! One bag is packed. The rain created a few problems for my other bag, so I will wait until next week to pack. (My bag was near the window. My sus sus was in the bag and it got wet and started mildewing and spreading to other things, so I have to let my bag dry out and the sus sus dry out too.)

I decided next week I am going to visit my friend’s site and also go to Waroni to check out the progress. She doesn’t have cell phone reception. I don’t have an internal compass, and I don’t speak Bambara. Surely that’s a recipe for a good story….or a disaster!

Another Week in Mali

Another Week in Mali

This past week, I finished picking up all my presents from the tailor. I told him to let me know the total. He gave me a number that I knew was not right. So, I redid the math and he was going to charge me 14 mille more!!! Everyday I am becoming more excited about coming home!!

Work was okay this past week. A coworker was a little rude yesterday and would never talk to me like that in front of my homologue, but what can you do? Also, it’s quite an adjustment getting use to the slower pace here in Mali.

On Thursday, it was Muhammad’s birthday, so we didn’t have to go to work. We get Monday off for Easter and next Wednesday off for a previous presidents birthday.

I abhor powdered milk, but my body really misses milk. So, a great milk source is degay (spelling phonetically). It is milk and sugar with flour grain in it. I like it best frozen, but it’s delicious cold too. When I first got here, I didn’t like it, but the longer I am here, the more things I am acquiring a taste for. Two weeks ago, I started really consuming a lot of degay. Before that, my only source of calcium was the ice cream I ate in Bamako (and maybe the cheese on the pizza!) Anyway, I learned how to make degay this morning, so I am going to try to make it when I’m home. (My homologues wife is going to do the prep work for the flour grain.) Is it even possible to buy flour grain in the States? It’s something I’ve never looked for at the grocery store.

Easter is tomorrow, and I am going to church. The sermon will be in Bambara, but I already know the topic! J Then, I am planning on spending the day at the pool. It’s expensive, but I can go to the pool a few times during this hot season.
I am going to try to start exercising again. I stopped because it was really hot (not complaining, just stating facts.) My homologues’ wife, tells me how “grosse” (large) I am (here, it’s a compliment…I have enough food), and that people in the States will tell me too. But, it doesn’t help that every time I go to their house to buy degay (I’m their best customer….no really), she forces me to eat. She tells me I am not nice if I refuse, so I need be nice! Anyway, I am going to start running again (that’s the plan anyway).

This week, I am going to a shea butter formation here in Sikasso. I am excited about learning more about shea. And, in two weeks, if all works out, I will be spending 5 or so days in Waroni. Then, that weekend, I will be cleaning and packing! And, on Sunday, April 6 (I think), I will be on the way to the Bamako Airport!!! I have a layover in New York, and I think I am more scared of New York than actually coming to Africa!

Right now, it is raining. It’s the first hard rain since November!! It’s marvelous except all my windows are open at my house…

0 Letter Week

My title basically sums up my entire week.

Just when I thought my French was getting better, my homologue and I had several miscommunications this past week. Sigh. Two steps forward, three steps back.

Instead of spending a week in village, I came back to Sikasso. My friend Laura invited me to her village, so I ended up biking to her village. It was a beautiful bike ride, and I was quite proud that I was able to do it (I'm not in the best shape of my life.) I helped her with baby weighings. Most of the babies were healthy, but a few were in the red zone (malnourished). I did see the absolute cutest little girl that had a baby doll strapped to her back!! That is how Malian women carry their babies, so it's just like in the States when little girls push baby strollers with baby dolls in it. Laura and I also tested out her solar oven, and I am quite impressed. I think that is on my list of things to bring back. We made cornbread which was absolutely fantastic.

My tutor and I tend to discuss marriages and relationships a lot, which is good because so much is taboo, so it's nice that I can get answers. I don't know how we got on the topic, but we talked about punishing children and punishing a wife. I explained that husband and wife are equals, and if I am ever hit by my husband, I'm getting a divorce. He couldn't believe it. He informed me that I shouldn't ever marry a Malian. I am NOT saying that every Malian beats his wife, because that is completely untrue. It's just so different culturally. From what I understood, beating your wife is bad, but laws are not really enforced, and besides your neighbor would mind their own business. He was appalled that after one time I would call it quits. It seems pretty self explanatory to me.

I am getting excited about my vacation to America in a few weeks!!! I am already preparing mentally for how hard it is going to be coming back. It's going to be tough....

Oh, such a stupid thing! Last week, when I thought everybody were using their cell phones, it turns out, I ran out of credit. Duh!!

Another Week

Not much has happened this week. I got sick again, but I like to think that God is giving me a head start for losing some weight for the wedding.
I was pretty emotional on Tuesday (some things never change), but I haven't cried in a while, so it was time.
I really don't have that much to report. I did see something interesting the other week. I saw a bull riding on the back of the donkey cart. I would be pretty upset if I were that donkey. You have 4 legs too!!!
Today is a Women's Day, or something to that sort. The only downside is that you can't get trough on your cell phone because EVERYBODY and their mom (who have cell phones that is), are on them.
I was devastated to learn about the death of a Auburn family member. My prayers and thoughts are with her family, friends, and the Auburn community.
I am gong to integrate in a village this upcoming week. I have to mentally prepare myself for the delicious toe (spelling phonetically) I am about to eat.
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Birthday Week

Birthday Girl

I am continuing to do a poor job of journaling. I will try to do a better job. This past Wednesday was my Birthday Eve. I went with my homologues daughter to buy green beans and chickens. I bought so much food!

Racers pawprint and me

She was giving me a hard time because I didn’t want to hold the chickens. Can you blame me? I was thankful that they killed and plugged the chickens: My arms were already full of green beans, onions, and carrots. I didn’t know how I could carry six chickens too! Lindsay came in from her village, which I felt so honoured because she is pretty darn far away! Her village is a few hours away, and from the main road, she is another 40K!!! Lindsay and I helped snapped green beans. I kept on doing it wrong (I didn’t even know there was a right or wrong way!!!) I was exhausted, and quite thankful that some of Echins children cleaned my house for a birthday present! I was quite glad, even though I know they were probably appalled. But, I don’t have kids, a husband (despite my fibbing), and I have a job outside the home. My tutor informed me that most Malian houses are cleaned a few times a day, but again, a lot of times children jobs are cleaning. I think a lot of American homes would be dirty if that was the children’s responsibility! Anyway, I was quite exhausted, and was delighted the next morning when my alarm clock woke me up and not prayer call! What a great start to my birthday! (The past few weeks I have been woken up by prayer call, regardless of what time I went to sleep, and unable to go back to sleep, which makes for a long day.) I was a tad annoyed that I heard people yelling my name. It was some of my homologues children, demanding more oil for the potatoes. I wanted to say, well then don’t use oil, but I didn’t and gave it to them. At work, Trinh brought in pastries. So sweet of her! She also made a card and got everybody to sign it. I got a little emotional, and I don’t know why, but I am so lucky to be in Sikasso with Trinh! The volunteer that is going to replace Trinh has HUGE shoes to fill! For lunch, Linds, Trinh, and I went to a “Tubabu” restaurant. I ordered a chicken sandwich with fries and ketchup, but inside of giving me fries, they put the ketchup on the sandwich, and disregarded the fries. Oh, the joys of communication! That afternoon, I read trashy magazines (i.e. Cosmo). It was great. I then got ready for my birthday party, and then Trinh and Calita came over. Trinh got me some fabric, and Calita made my cake. (That morning, Linds gave me some jewellery.)

My homologue, me, and his wife

We then went over to my homologues house. It was fantastic! Some of the kids got dressed up for my birthday party! I played cards before dinner. There is a Malian game called 151, and I am terrible! I hope to improve. We then had a lovely dinner of chicken, green beans, and potatoes. I was delighted that 2 SED PC workers could come, Mackie and Mama. It was a really fun day. I slept so well that night! This past Saturday, I met with a local village

Lye and me

to discuss their well problem. I was encouraged to see about 50 people came. Many of their wells are dried up. The women also have to get up 3ish to get water for their husbands’ morning bathes. Because I am in a city, I really forgot that men and women sit separately during meetings in rural settings. I was so culturally sensitive when I made a joke, are the men scared of the women? I fortunately forgot the word for scared, but my tutor explained to me that it’s cultural. Way to go, Lala. At the beginning, one man said, look at the women. They are exhausted. The have to get up so early to get us water, and clean and cook. We need more working wells. Sometimes, I have to tell the American in me to chill because I really wanted to say, would it be that hard if you swept the house every once in a while when your wife is getting your water?!? Or maybe, because men are generally physically stronger than women (even though I got really angry in elementary school when teachers would pick boys to lift the heavy boxes; I really could have taken them on with my gymnasts’ strength. Seriously!), get your own water? Just another example of why I would be single the rest of my life if I opted to stay in Mali. Anyway, we established that the community needs more working wells, and got a committee lined up. On Sunday, the committee and I met again. We are going to apply for funding, but my tutored informed me today that he hasn’t gathered the necessary information yet, so we will have to wait until the next deadline because we will probably miss this deadline. I might also check into some other organizations to see if they can help. I reiterated the point to the community that the community has to contribute 33%, so I hope they understand.

(I really want to write “Confidential to Anonymous” just like Dear Abby, but I’ll resist;)

In addressing the question about the marriage proposals, I asked other volunteers and we discussed this with 2 Malian men.
One Asian American said that white woman is constantly portrayed as uppers in literature. I didn’t think about that, but I can definitely see her point.
One white volunteer said that when she got a marriage proposal, she said, I don’t know about taking you back to American. He said, America? Who said anything about America? You’ll stay here with me. So, it is not every man’s intention of going back to the States. I’m sure some people think about it, but often they see America as big, rich, and full of opportunities, but they don’t consider all of the wonderful aspects of Malian culture that they would miss. I would imagine when Malians do go to America, they are often overwhelmed and may even prefer the simple life. (Sometimes, I imagine taking a Malian to Disney World, show them a drive through window, or even just a grocery store. I can’t even imagine!)
I asked the men that perhaps some men proposal simply because of the curiousness of being with someone so different from them? They said that was definitely possible. They also said that the older men are joking (thank goodness because sometimes I want to say “seriously gramps”?) One of the Malian men spent some time in America and said Americans really know how to love. But, Malian women just want to know if you’ll buy them a cell phone, new clothes, etc. But, I think this is also different because of so many reasons! Malian men pay money to the girls’ father to get married to her. I explained that the girls’ father typically pays for the wedding, a concept that most Malians were dismayed with. Also, I like to think that in the States (for most couples anyway, or at least I like to think it works this way), couples give and take. Sometimes, a spouse has to make some sacrifices to make the marriage work. But essentially, each person is concerned about their spouse and how they are feeling, what they like, etc. In my short time here, I feel that relationships are definitely viewed differently here.

Calita, me, Trinh, and Lindsay: Birthday 2008

And Time Keeps on Moving...

I should have brought my journal while typing up this blog! I started writing again, but I left it at home.
On Monday, Jack, Trinh, and I made salmon cakes along with potatoes and carrots. It’s great being “Sikasso Kaw” (Bambara for people that live in Sikasso)! It’s having a community within PC. So, Sikasso Kaws stick together and RPCV Sikasso Kaws mailed us a box full of goodies! So, it was packaged salmon (thanks RPCV Sikasso Kaw!) and we made salmon cakes. Delicious!
On Tuesday, I went to Trinh’s training. She began it a few weeks ago, encouraging creativity and product differentiation. From my view point, schools here encourage memorization and not creative thinking, and it is obvious to me that creative thinking is not nurtured when children are in school. Malians are really good copying styles and patterns, but to say, make a sac (purse), you will get blank looks.

Their work

Again, this is a broad generalization, but I would imagine that a lot of people would agree with me. Even with foodstuff, people lack differsivication. When coming back from Segou a few weeks ago, we stopped at this one place and EVERYBODY was selling “ghato” (cake/muffins).

Sporting a sac

I went a few weeks ago to look at their products that they were going to take to the Segou Music Festival. It was fun returning and seeing just how far these women have progressed! I also got to hang out with the other Katy from Sikasso region, so that was fun catching up.
Wednesday was the closing ceremony of the formation. They had snacks, drinks, and certificates. It was fun. When the VIPs left, they discussed goals for the next 3 months. Again, a new concept to most. I also RSVPed to my brother’s finaces’ wedding shower. I unfortantely cannot make it (hmmm…) Nobody can say that my mama didn’t raise me right!!
Valentine’s Day was just another day I happily ate my box of chocolates. My cell phone company had a promotion, but it wasn’t nearly as huge as it was in December for Tabaski! I received one “happy vday” text from my friend Lindsay, so that was a pleasant surprise.
Yesterday, Trinh came over for moral support cleaning. My apartment is out of control! But, there is always a room ready for guests. My room, on the other hand, has to have the door shut when people come over. Clothes and books are my doing, but I live beside the busiest road in Sikasso, and beside the road is dirt. When 18 wheelers come zooming past, they stir up all the dirt to my place. You may think I’m exaggerating, but I’m really not!! I still love where I live, regardless of previous problems (i.e. water). I feel so safe in an apartment. I don’t think I could have that sense of security if I lived in a house. Anyway, Trinh was amazing support, and she ended up cooking dinner while I slaved away in my room. I feel like I made a dent. That’s progress right? You may be wondering, how could I accumulate so much stuff, but it is possible.
That’s my week in a nut shell…
Next week….MY BIRTHDAY! I am going to buy lamb meat for my work to enjoy, and then I am buying 5 chickens and green beans. I totally invited myself to my homologues’ house. The family is wonderful, and I feel connected to them. I will still never not be a guest, but I’ve downgraded from VIP status. I don’t think they will ever let me clear my own plate or sit on the floor. Maybe next year. I am buying the food because that’s really the least I can do. They will kill, pluck, and cook the chickens and cook the green beans. So many times, the guest get chicken and pasta, but everybody else is eating rice, so for my birthday, we are all going to enjoy the same “guest” food. Everybody is going to have fun on Lala’s Maiga’s birthday!

At the celebration!

2 Thumbs up for all their hard work

Oh, I apologize to anonymous, will address your question next week. Would love to be on a first name basis!

The Past 2 Weeks and Random Tidbits

I have done a bad job journaling these past two weeks, so I can only remember bits and pieces.

On Friday, February 1, 2008, my water got turned back on! I spoke to my landlord, gave him money for my "part" and he dealt with it. When I got back home, the business with the bill told me I owed more money. I asked to see the bill and the calculations, and surprise, they miscalculated. I really need a water counter because without it, I will always feel like I'm getting ripped off.

The week of the 28th to February 1st, was my first real work week. A British writer frocame and is wanting to update the Mali tourist book. I hope is is able to come back in March so we can set up an agenda for her. This could be huge for Sikasso tourism. My coworkers and I also began working on signs for the tourist sites around Sikasso. This is a bigger project than I would have imagined, but it's good.

February 2nd to 8th, a PC tutor came to help me with French. This time went so much better than the first time around! I actually feel like I've improved, where as before, I actually thought my French got worse (if even possible!). Now, I have to keep the momentum going and continue to study every day.

RANDOM TIDBITS:
Mali, like many other countries, considers the left hand unclean because they use the left hand and water to clean themselves wehn they are done using the bathroom. WhenI was told this in the States, I was grossed out. But now? It's actually quite practical. I get the eww feeling when not everybody uses soap afterwards, but that's another story. Anyway, I observed a 4 year old being wiped and asked what age does the child start taking card of his/her business? I was told inattentive parents let their childern do it when they are young, but other wipe their childern until they are 9 or 10. At school for young childern (4, 5, 6 year olds), there are women that assist them and then teach them to wash their hands. This is so different from how I was raised. I remember my Mom teaching a Sunday school class and a 5 year old asked her to wip her and my mom said if you are old enough for big girl panties, you are old enough to wipe yourself.

Engagement rings: I've changed my mind about engagement rings so many times. But, I have come to the conclusion that engagement rings and wedding rings are a great idea. I have been asked countless times in Mali, are you married? Do you want to marry me? Why don't you want to marry me...etc. etc. In the states, words are unnessasary! You just have to look at a woman's left hand to see if she's available!!! (which probably wouldn't work that well here, when you can legally have up to 4 wives). But, this was my breakthrough of the week. I think engagement rings are genius and so are wedding bands.

That's all for now. I don't have time to spell check so please overlook the mistakes.