Thanksgiving in Sikasso

I hope I am speaking for all when I say all the volunteers that came to Sikasso for Thanksgiving had a lovely time.

Volunteers started arriving on Wednesday. That morning, Lindsay and I went shopping. We bought 30 K of potatoes, 8 dollars of green beans, and 2 jays. We hired a cart to take it to the Malians’ house who was cooking for us (yes, we outsourced it…what a good call.) That afternoon, I went over to Diane’s to help bake pies. We all went out to eat. It took some volunteers 2 hours to get their food. And, unlike Ameriki, they didn’t get it for free, no matter how hard they argued. Some people went dancing later, but I was exhausted.
Anna, Katy, me, and Laura after pie baking

Thursday was Thanksgiving! I went over to Diane’s and played hearts. I also was the bartender for an hour, and Lindsay and I picked up the green beans, jay (Malian pumpkin), and potatoes. I have a great taxi driver’s number in my phone, and he happily chauffeured us around. I feel that most cab drivers in Sikasso are unfair and rude, so I am delighted that I got Yacuba, and then got his business card. We had 4 turkeys, 12 pies (apple and pumpkin/jay), dressing, green beans, gravy, and I can’t really remember what else. It was quite a feast.

Laura, me, Lindsay, Anna: Sikasso Kaw on Thanksgiving

Friday was Mexican Night. I cleaned, and then went shopping with Laura. We bought 5 Kilos of meat, 20 avocados, 4 Kilos of tomatoes, 2 ½ K of onions, peppers, flour, etc. We then called Yacuba to take all the ingredients to my place. People started coming over about 2:30, and we hung out. Everything was going great, until the power went out. TIA. It was out for about 45 minutes in the whole city. I managed to find my headlamp and gave it to Lindsay D. (she is such a great cook and I am so appreciative that she took control of the kitchen). I also managed to use a few candles. I think some volunteers thought I was ridiculous, but I think I should have posted my rules. I have 2 rules. Take your shoes off before entering my house and shut the door! I believe I said “Shut the door” about 20 times. All these brusse volunteers don’t have doors that shut, but I do and I am antimosiqutos/flies and you have to keep the door shut to keep them out. It wouldn’t surprise me if people were talking about me and my “friendly” (or maybe not so friendly) reminder to shut the door.
We all hung out on the roof. I invited Echin, and was delighted that he came. Everybody was impressed because he actually ate the food. Most Malians don’t like what we cook. It’s just too weird. If it’s not drenched in oil, they don’t know what to think. Echin has traveled, and eats different types of food.

On Saturday, I returned bottles with Laura. I then took 2 naps. Hosting wears me out!

I think it’s fair to say that Thanksgiving and Mexican Night 08 was a success!

Oh Happy Days

Welcome Esa! I am such a happy PCV right now!

Last week, I went to 2 baptisms. As previously stated, “naming ceremony” would probably be a better term. One of the baptisms I went to, I didn’t even know the family! But, I brought a gift (soap), and this particular family spent a lot of money and slaughtered a lamb. This lamb was so tasty! It reminded me of Greece!

Esa

I knew the family of the other baptism I went to. It was Diane’s guards’ (Moussa) wife’s (Mye) baby. His name is Esa. So cute! He is such a big baby, which means he’s healthy. Laura told me most Malian children at her health clinic at her village weigh about 2 Kilos after birth. Esa weighted in at like 4 Kilos!

This week, I am finishing the paperwork for the faucet project. I HOPE to turn in the paperwork by Monday….but it is West Africa and we are on WAIT.

We have a few meetings at work these next coming weeks, and I want to organize my thoughts (and then translate them to French). This is my time to give my opinions and ideas.

Thanksgiving is next week!!! And my family is coming next month!!! It’s crazy that the time has finally arrived!

A few random sightings-

A few weeks ago, I was biking by and saw a really cute little girl on a tire. Normally, children use bike tires as toys and run and hit the wheel with a stick to get the wheel moving. One little girl put her tire on a cut down tree and sat on it like a tire swing.

I saw an 18 wheeler carrying dried sheep skins. And, there were 3 poor sheep sitting in front of it. I’m having a hard time describing this, but it was really funny and I wished I had my camera near by!

I have seen so many wrecks within the past month! The most tragic wreck was an 18 wheeler that ran off the side of the road. People were sitting on top (pretty typical), but they were thrown from the truck and sweet potatoes (what the truck was carrying) feel and killed 4 individuals. People were picking up sweet potatoes 2 days after the wreck.

Chillin in potato scraps

Lala and Esa

Happy mom, Mye and Esa

proud daddy, Moussa

Who's ready for some futbol?

Fast, Fun Week

My dinner; gorgeous isnt it?

It seems like every time I am about to Bamako, I get sick. 2 weekends ago (November 1st & 2nd), I went home that night, feeling real puny. I was running a fever, took some Motrin, and finally went to sleep. The next morning, my fever rose. Anyway, also how it seems to happen to me, when I go to the doctor, I don’t look as bad as I did when I was at home. Anyway, I was not feeling great the whole time I was in Bamako. But, I did go to an expats house for an election party. I felt so young and broke! It was a potluck. I brought candy…the expats brought nice wines, lamb, chicken, etc. Anyway, hopefully they understand that we are living 2 different lives here and we don’t have money. The house was phenomenal! I didn’t see a pool, but I did see the tennis courts and the “game house” (which I do believe is bigger than my apartment). And, I saw my first washing machine and dryer! I was a bit disappointed I didn’t see more ice cream in the freezer. The election party was fun, especially because we were all pulling for the same candidate. I left at 3:30 am because it was basically done (the whole time change couldn’t have come at a better time…just kidding).
The next day, I left with Chelsea to go back to Sikasso. I really do prefer the morning bus, but I overslept for the morning buses. On the taxi ride over, these guys hang on the cab. It is so annoying because if they bring you to a shady bus, they get a cut of money. (When I say shady, I mean unreliable…the 6 hour trip could take 11 hours). I wasn’t feeling great, and they were REALLY ANNOYING, and I did something I probably should not have done. I threw water on one of them. He was totally taunting me (no excuse). Anyway, he caught it with his mouth and spit it at me. Guess I deserved what I got. Anyway, he was either cussing me out in Bambara or cursing me, but I couldn’t understand him. And, what really stinks is I don’t think I deterred him from harassing the next “tubabs”.
Sadly, the mayors’ son (in Sikasso) got hit by a bus, so the mayor put out an order that NO BUS stop in the city, and should go straight to the bus station. If they are caught, it’s a 50 dollar fine. This was irritating because formerly, I would get dropped off literally at my front door. I am sad for the mayor, but I don’t think this is the solution because now the buses fly through town (believe me, I’m on my bike) along with the 18 wheelers. Ideally, they would implement speed limits, install speed bumps, and have designated bus stops. Sigh. So I had to walk 20-30 minutes home, but that beats going to the bus station. I passed several of the people I regularly greet, and they were congratulating me, giving me high fives, as if I personally got Obama elected. Everybody was really excited.
This past weekend, it was the annual Balafon Festival. It was so much more organized last year, but we all had a good time. Burkina Faso press asked me if they could interview me…I directed them to Lindsay. Lindsay was able to give a shout out to her village. Unsurprisingly, Burkina won. They totally deserved it. I wish I could look at the sheet that they are judged on.
I started taking medicine yesterday and am already feeling better.
“My e” (Dianes guards’ wife) had a baby boy last Thursday! The baptism is on Wednesday, so I should have some adorable pictures of the new baby!
I am trying very hard to get the paperwork finished for the faucet project, but things move real slow here. Hopefully, it will be up by December. When it is posted, I will put instructions on how to help!
I have this great idea that I am going to make a Where's Lala Calendar? Can you find me:)

Halloween

I need to start doing a better job journaling! This week was fine. Fairly uneventful (probably because I didn't write anything down).
On Friday night, Laura, Adelle, Katy, and I made cheesburgers! (Actually, Vascure burgers...vascure is fake cheese...doesn't need refrigeration). It was marvelous!
On Saturday, PC called. They came into town to check out the new bureau. At the same time, I was suppose to meet with Babemba. Sigh. I was late to the Babemba meeting, but it wasn't a big deal because it's Mali. I'm feeling pretty good that the village is going to get a robinet by March!
Halloween, celebrated in Sikasso on November 1st, was fun. Only Laura, Ben, and I dressed up. Ben made these amazing masks. I'll see if I take his picture. I went home that night, not feeling great. I had a fever, and all afternoon and night, green stuff was coming out of my eye. The next morning, I was feeling sick, my fever rose, and it was just not fun. I went to Bamako, and was able to stay in the medical unit. I got check out this morning. It wasn't pink eye, the fever is gone, and it's not strep throat. I'm not 100%, but I'm feeling much better.

If Harry Potter were Malian, I like to think he would look like Lye and posse

This week has gone surprisingly fast. Here’s some highlights.

On 10/14, I went to Babemba to meet with the individual who works for the water company. Several individuals from the community met with us. I saw where the main water line is and where we would install the faucet. Unfortunately, after talking with the water company, it is unfeasible to put the faucet in the middle of the village. He informed us that the pressure would be too weak. Hopefully, after this first faucet is installed perhaps in a decade; they will have the technology to supply water uphill to Babemba. But right now, we have to install it near the road. While this isn’t the ideal situation, people will still have access to potable water which is the main goal.

2 Wednesdays ago (10/15), I left the internet café in such a good mood! It’s remarkable how just an hour of the internet can put a smile on my face for the rest of the day. I was peddling along, when I past a kid on my bike. As I was passing him, he managed to nail me in the leg with a rock, propelled from his sling shot. I abruptly stop my bike, grabbed my purse, and chased after him. I spent a good 30 minutes of my once joyful afternoon, chasing this punk kid. He knows Sikasso better than me, and I unfortunately lost him. During the chase, I began crying (which is such a no no in this culture) because I felt like one of those kids from elementary school that is constantly bullied and then one day, they fight back. All this built up tension of kids yelling TUBABU!, taunting me, making farting noises when I passed on my bike…it just all built up and I broke down. I did not even know I had so much built up tension in me! I bought a coke (I only drink soda on the weekends, but I felt like I deserved one), and called Emily in tears. Oh how drastically moods, and the weather, can change!

I went to a women’s group last Friday to help them cook. I cut the onions with my left hand, but nobody said anything. When I told my tutor I helped them cook, he asked with what hand did cut the food with. I told him my left, and it told me it was bad. Why don’t you try cutting food with your non-dominant hand and tell me how that works out for you? I washed my hands more than anyone in the group. I am so unMalian, and cannot cut food in my hands without shedding blood. They gave me a plate to cut on, and I will start looking for a piece of wood to give them for when Americans help them. I am planning on hanging out with them more this upcoming year because I had a great time and was able to practice my Bambara.

On Sunday, I went to Babemba for a meeting. Unlike the previous meeting, people were on WAIT time. We ended up starting 30 minutes late, and people continued to come in even near the end. I think it is because we started the meeting earlier and people were still at the market (Sunday is the big market day in Sikasso). Anyway, everybody is on board. I hope to submit the paperwork early Novemberish, with the intent of it being online in December.

On Wednesday, I went to a baptism. I think a more appropriate name would be the naming ceremony. I was supposed to go to my homologues house at 7 am. I came a few minutes late, and Madame was already gone. Thankfully, Echin’s son Essac escorted me there because I had NO IDEA where I was going. They served me beans when I got there, and I hung out. Jaba (Echins wife) was so in tune with me and as so as she saw me yawn, she took me inside to nap. I, unlike most PCVs, think 7 am is really early, but people in brusse think 7 am is sleeping in. Yes, I am a city girl. Because I didn’t bring my cell phone, I had no idea what time it was. So I kept on listening to see when the greeting changed from good morning to good day. IT’S STILL N E SOGOMA? [Good morning in Bambara, spelled phonetically] Needless to say, it was a long day.

Jaba and her sister-in-law Fatimata...while I couldn't understand their conversations, they were so comfortable and considerate (Jaba pulled water from the well so Fatimata could bathe) I bet this will be Katie G and myself in 30 years

The guest of honor primping with him mom (it was quite funny because I asked her his name, she told me Karim...but she was mistakened. His name is Ibhrihim...in Mali, the father and his friends name the child )

I hung out with the women, ate zami (red rice), had an orange frozen soft drink, and ended up leaving in the afternoon. I left before the griots came. Griots are people that give out blessings and you pay them. I (much to the horror of all Malians I’ve told) don’t really agree with griots and don’t want to pay someone for something I didn’t ask for. I explained to my tutor that they just do it for the money, but he argued that their heart is in it too. While I understand it is a part of the culture, I have had a hard time embracing griots. So, I got to experience the preparation for the baptism.

So much food!
I believe this child hasn't seen many white people before...

Women cleaning the dishes

My last name, Maïga, is a northern name. Because I live in the south, people are always like, you’re a northern woman. Sure. So, I typically impress people because I know how to say good morning in Songhi (sp?). They laugh. But, last week it backfired, because the person I said good morning to continued speaking in Songhi. I guess I can’t fool everybody.

Isnt this little girl adorable? She didn't cry at all

Farewell to the Last Belushi in Sikasso

My trip to Segou was fantastic!! I didn’t even know I needed a break until I got there! I interneted for about 20 hours. I drank lots of soda (I felt like I needed to buy something in order to use the wi fi), and I ate lots of good food (expensive, but I splurged). My first meal there was a ham sandwich! With REAL cheese!!!! (We have fake cheese in Sikasso…fake as in it doesn’t melt…)
I thought Kyle was nice because he has sisters, but then I got to thinking, my mom has 4 sisters….just because you have sisters doesn’t make you nice. (I think that came out wrong. My mom is AMAZING!!! But, when she is with her sisters, they can all get…shall we say rude?) So, he’s much nicer than me. I ended up buying him dinner one night and we called it even. (If I won, I would have showed no mercy.)
Mary put the map in color. It looks so good! She has inspired me to take a photoshop later on in my life. I am currently trying to make some minor changes, but I think I am going to give up today.
This sounds crazy, but I was looking forward to getting out to village. Just the simplicity and the quietness (is that even a word?) of it all. So, I ended up going “camping” with Mary at Kyle’s site. I do like my toilets, but it was so pleasant bathing in the rain. During moments like those, I wish I had both a toilet and a yeagan. It reminded me a bit of when I was a lifeguard and would go swimming in the rain. I guess that’s the Pisces in me.

Brooke and me

Brooke, the last Belushi of Sikasso, left. We had a wonderful Indian food night on Friday night. On Saturday, we were supposed to go to the pool all day, but when I arrived, Katy was the only one there! I got a drink, and it was fun chatting with Katy. Her village is quite far from Sikasso, so I don’t see her as much as the other volunteers in Sikasso region. It was really nice catching up with her. When we were leaving, we ran into some Koreans, and they asked if we were Peace Corps. Why yes, we are. Apparently, it was literally their first day in Mali. No, really. They are working for a NGO for 3-5 years. Katy and I wished them all the best. When we left, Katy and I were discussing if we give out a PC vibe. Do we look like the former stereotypical PC volunteer? Or are we in areas that no tourist would go?

Tata and Lala @ the pool

When the rain stopped, we met everybody and got street food. Chelsea had FUN FETTI birthday cake mix and icing, and it was absolutely superb!!! While it’s sad to say goodbye, it’s crazy that my stage will be the next group of volunteers to leave!

Random Thoughts/Experiences of Lala

You know how some women get monthly pedicures for mental health reasons? I think I am going to put air in my bicycle tires once of month. I didn’t realize how much a little air can make such a huge difference! I feel like a new woman!

Yesterday (10-13), the secretary of the Environment Conservation Bureau, decided I should marry her brother. He’s a Christian, speaks English, in his 30s…what more could a girl ask for? It was so funny because I apparently am in my prime marrying age, and everybody who finds out I’m single, plays matchmaker. I asked the secretary how old she thought I was…15 or 16!!! And, my family is coming in December so if it was up to the secretary and my coworker, I would be getting married in December to a guy I’ve never met. Love is not a factor. Security and being culturally appropriate is.

Malians are so wasteless when it comes to food. I was noticing how Malians cut onions and tomatoes and there is literally no part that can be eatten that goes to waste. I thought nothing of cutting the end of the onion off, until I saw how they meticulously only cut the inedible part out.

Last weekish, I saw a guy who was riding a bike. He was about to turn right, but was signaling with his left hand. This also happens, I feel, a lot with both cars and motos. While I was anti drivers education as a teenager, it really is a good idea, and I am now an advocate of driver’s education. And, it would be fine with me if South Carolina raised the driving age. Geez, I sound old!

Yesterday (10-14), we saw a white guy going into our favorite restaurant when we were leaving. We didn’t say a word, but then he asked “Peace Corps?” When this happens, I feel proud. It’s like we go where no tourist plans to go (except PC families that are visiting). He lives in Kayes region and thought we were PCVs so decided to go to “our” restaurant (we are regulars).

Today, I almost got hit by a bashee (green truck that has benches in the back where people sit). I’m glad I can laugh about it now. The guy was turning left; I was going straight…anyway, I’m glad PC gives us nice bikes with brakes…

I had an epiphany last week. I am an adult. Sigh. I’m trying to get excited….

Life is Grand

I am sitting by the pool in Segou, using whi fy internet. Isnt that great?!

This most eventful part of my week was going to Segou. The bus schedule listed that a bus would leave sikasso at 8 am, but we ended up leaving at 9. But, what was so memorable was sitting and waiting while people watching. A teenage Malian girl and an adult Malian woman were getting into it. I dont know what was said, until a Malian who spoke impressive English sat beside me and explained it to me. Apparently, the teenager told the woman that nobody could beat her in this area. The woman said oh yeah, well i can, and then proceeded to try to hit her. A Malian man broke it up, and in Mali, they use 3rd party intervention. The individual listens to both sides of the story, and it really helps calm them down (most of the time). The woman just thought it was disrespectful.
Then in Koutiala, some body thought they were getting gyped out of money. That "discussion" (as the guy beside me told me...i would have probably used yelling match but whatever) lasted 30 minutes. TIA.

Segou is wonderful, except the harrassment from garabos, tour guides, etc. Laying by the pool, reading, listening to an ipod was how I spent my afternoon. Just like an enthralling book, I forgot where I was for a few hours today!

Segou is a much needed break. So glad I'm here!